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The following text is from The Northern Bahamas Guide, The Exuma Guide, and The Southern Bahamas Guide, all by Stephen J. Pavlidis If you are heading to The Bahamas, especially the more southerly out-islands you will enter a tropical climate where the theme for clothing is light. You will most likely live in shorts and T-shirts (if that much). Long pants and sturdy, comfortable shoes are preferred when hiking for protection from the bush and the rugged terrain. Long sleeved shirts (or old cotton pajamas) and wide brimmed hats are important in keeping the sun off you. Polarized sunglasses (helpful for piloting) and suntan lotion (suntan oil tends to leave a long lasting greasy smear all over everything) should be included in your gear. In winter months it is advisable to bring something warm to wear, especially in the evenings. Long pants and sweaters are usually adequate and a light jacket would be a good idea as some frontal passages will occasionally drop the temperature to 60° F. It is important that men and women dress appropriately when entering settlements. Skimpy bathing suits for men as well as women are excellent for the beach or boat but in town they are not apropos. Men should wear shirts in town as some local inhabitants are quick to remind you to cover up. Remember, you are a visitor here and that entails a certain responsibility.
The legally acceptable currency of The Bahamas is the Bahamian dollar whose value is on par with the American dollar. American money is readily acceptable throughout the islands at all stores, marinas, and hotels. Bahamian coins come in 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, and 25¢ denomination while Bahamian paper money comes in $.50, $1, $3, (yes, a three dollar bill), $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100 denominations.
The Royal Bahamas Defence Force officially came into existence on March 31, 1980. Their duties include defending The Bahamas, stopping drug smuggling, illegal immigration, poaching, and to provide assistance to mariners whenever and wherever they can. They have a fleet of 26 coastal and inshore patrol craft along with 2 aircraft. As late as 1991, horror stories were coming out of Nassau concerning improprieties during routine boardings. The Defence Force has taken corrective steps and reports of trouble caused by boarding parties are almost non-existent now. What complaints I have heard I have found to have two sides, and quite often cruisers take the boaters side instinctively while giving no thought to the other side of the coin. There is no reason to dread the gray boats as they approach. The Defence Force has a very difficult job to do and it often becomes necessary for them to board private pleasure vessels in routine searches. The boarding party will do everything they can to be polite and professional, however, due to the violent nature of the criminals they seek, standard procedure is to be armed. Unfortunately, in the process of protecting themselves, they inadvertently intimidate cruisers. Please do not be alarmed if a crewman bearing an automatic weapon stays in your cockpit while the officer conducts a search below decks in your presence. If you are boarded you will be asked to sign a statement saying that the search was carried out politely and in the presence of the owner or skipper. I have been boarded and found the boarding officer and crew to courteous and professional. It is not unusual for the Defence Force to enter an anchorage and board all the vessels anchored there. Normally they will not board a vessel that is unoccupied, preferring to keep an eye out for your return. Cruisers often ask why single me out, why search my boat? What are they looking for? Besides the obvious problem with drugs, The Bahamas has problems with people smuggling illegal weapons and ammunition into the country. With bullets selling for $5 and more a piece on the street in Nassau a boater could fatten his or her cruising kitty very easily. You must keep accurate records on all your weapons and ammunition and make sure you record them on your cruising permit when you check in. The Defence Force also must defend the richness of the marine fisheries in The Bahamas. It is not unknown for a boat to cross over from the states without a permit and fill up its freezers with Bahamian caught fish, conch, and lobster. In 1997, a boat from south Florida was boarded upon its return to Florida and the owners and crew arrested and charged under the Lacy Act. The Defence Force, if they board your vessel, will probably want to see your fishing permit and ask you whether you have any fish aboard. For most cruisers this does not pose a problem. If, however, you have 100 dolphin aboard, you will find yourself in a world of well deserved trouble. You might have a better understanding of what the Defence Force goes through if you learn about the four Defence Force Marines who died a decade ago when Cuban MIGs sank their boat after the rest of the crew boarded Cuban fishing boats illegally operating in Bahamian waters along the southern edge of the Great Bahama Bank. Theirs is a serious business.
Most cruisers spend a considerable amount of time in their dinghies exploring the waters and islands in the vicinity of their anchorage. It is not unknown for a dinghy engine to fail or a skipper to run out of gas miles away from the mother vessel. For this reason I urge boaters to carry some simple survival gear in their dinghies. First, I would recommend a handheld VHF radio for obvious reasons. If there are any other boats around this may be your best chance for getting some assistance. A good anchor and plenty of line are also high on the list. I do not mean one of those small three pound anchors with thirty feet of line that is only used on the beach to keep your dinghy from drifting to Cuba. It may pay to sacrifice the onboard room and use a substantial anchor with a couple of feet of chain and at least 100’ of line. Just as you would go oversize on your mother vessel do the same with your dinghy. If you are being blown away from land a good anchor and plenty of line gives you a good chance of staying put where someone may find you. Next, a dinghy should have a supply of flares. Local boaters often carry a large coffee can with a rag soaked in oil lying in the bottom. If they get in trouble lighting the rag will produce an abundant amount of smoke that can be seen from a quite a distance. A dinghy should be equipped with survival water, a bottle or some small packages manufactured by a company called DATREX. It would be a good idea to throw in a few MRE’s. These are the modern, tastier version of K-Rations that our armed forces survived on for years. Each MRE also contains vital survival components such as matches and toilet paper. Another handy item that does not take up much room is a foil survival blanket. They really work and take up as much space as a couple of packs of cigarettes. Please don’t laugh at these suggestions. I have seen people forced to spend a night or two in a dinghy and these few items would have made their experience much more pleasant if not entirely unnecessary. I have run out of gas and used flares to attract some local attention even though one of my boat mates was ready to dive in and swim for the nearest island to fetch some help. Now, I never leave in my dinghy without my little survival bag stashed away in the dink. It doesn’t take much effort to prepare a small bag for your dinghy and it will be worth its weight in gold should you need it. One final word, if you find the need to skirt a large sandbank lying to leeward of a cay remember that even though the sandbanks stretch out quite a way to the west, there is usually a channel of slightly deeper water nearer the shoreline of the cays.
In the area of the Hub of Abaco, the waters between Great Guana Cay, Marsh Harbour, and Hope Town, you will find a mode of transportation that is quite unique in The Bahamas…the ferry. These little pastel colored vessels move a lot of people safely and for what a very economical fare. Abaco Island Transportation offers ferries from Great Guana Cay to Marsh Harbour at 0800, 1500, and 1700, with return trips running at 0900, 1600, and 1800. The Green Turtle Ferry runs from Green Turtle to Treasure Cay at 0800, 1330, and 1500, and returns at 1030, 1430, and 1615. The ferry also offers special charter runs from Green Turtle Cay to Treasure Cay at 0915, 1115, and 1215, with return trips running at 0945 and 1445. Albury’s Ferry Service is probably the busiest ferry in the Hub with daily ferries from Marsh Harbour to Man-O-War Cay at 1030 and 1600 daily, and trips from Man-O-War to Marsh Harbour at 0800 and 1330. Albury’s also leaves Hope Town for Marsh Harbour at 0800, 1130, 1330, and 1600, and returns at 1030, 1215, and 1600 daily. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays Albury’s has a special ferry that leaves Man-O-War Cay for Marsh Harbour at 1130 and returns at 1215. On all weekdays, except holidays, Albury’s runs from Marsh Harbour’s Union Jack Dock to Scotland and Guana Cays at 0730, 1100, and 1530, with return trips arriving in Marsh Harbour at 0900, 1215, and 1645. Albury’s Ferry Service requests advance notice for passengers wishing to go to Scotland Cay.
Fishing in The Bahamas is hard to beat. Trolling in the Gulf Stream, the Atlantic Ocean, Exuma Sound, or Crooked Island Passage you are likely to hook a dolphin, wahoo, or tuna, all excellent eating. Trolling on the banks you will usually catch a barracuda although it is possible to bring up a snapper, jack, or grouper. Bonefish can be found in the tidal flats scattered throughout the islands. Chris Lloyd of BASRA in Nassau offers this little ditty to those who are unsure what color lure to use for trolling offshore. Chris says: Red and black-Wahoo attack. Chris works Monday through Friday and BASRA HQ in Nassau Harbour and is quite an authority on fishing Bahamian waters. If you have any questions stop in and ask Chris. He loves visitors and is a wealth of fishing and diving information. Chris reminds us that the cooler months are ripe for wahoo while dolphin are more abundant from March through May. The back of your fishing permit will have a brief but incomplete description of the fishing regulations in The Bahamas. Only six lines are permitted in the water at one time unless you have paid for a commercial permit (very expensive). SCUBA is illegal for the taking of marine life and an air compressor such as a Third Lung or similar type of apparatus, must have a permit issued by the Minister of Agriculture. Spearguns are illegal for fishing in The Bahamas and are illegal to have aboard. You may only use a Hawaiian sling or pole spear for spearfishing. It is illegal to use bleach, firearms, or explosives for fishing. Spearfishing is illegal within one mile of New Providence and within 200 yards of any family island (defined as any cay with a residence). The capture of bonefish by net is illegal as is their purchase or sale. Conch, with a daily limit of 10 per person, may not be taken if they do not have a well formed, flared lip. Possession of a hawksbill turtle is prohibited. The minimum size for a green turtle is 24” and for a loggerhead, 30”. The bag limit for kingfish, dolphin, and wahoo is a maximum combination of 6 fish per person aboard. Crawfish, the spiny lobster that is such a treat as well as being a large part of the economy for local fishermen, has a closed season from April 1-August 1. The minimum limits are a carapace length of 3 3/8” and a 6” tail length. It is illegal to posses a berried (egg laying) female or to remove the eggs from a female. As of 2004, the Government of The Bahamas has declared that the month of January is a closed season for Nassau Grouper. This has a serious effect on the economy of the local fisherman who remain very vocal in protest. The future of this ban is uncertain, it may be lifted or it may be expanded. Ask when you clear. In the out-islands there are far fewer jobs than there are people looking for jobs. The people here must eke out a living the best way they can. Remember that when you are fishing. Please catch just enough to eat and maybe put some away for tomorrow. So often cruisers come through this area with huge freezers just waiting to be filled to the brim to help their owners offset vacation costs. If you over-fish an area you may be taking food out of the mouths of children. To help protect the livelihood of the people of The Bahamas, some of richer fishing spots will not be mentioned in this guide. Although you can no longer take conch, FYI, conch can usually be found on the bottom in beds of sea grass or soft corals where they prefer to feed. They are usually in areas with a swift current such as in the cuts between cays. The conch that you don’t plan to eat right away can be left in a dive bag hanging in the water or may be put on a stringer. Punch or drill a small hole in the lip of the conch shell and string four or five together and set them on the bottom, they won’t go far. After you clean the conch, save the tough orange colored skin and put it in your freezer for later, it is an excellent fish bait and a small piece of it should be placed on all lures to give them an attractive aroma to fish. The reefs in The Bahamas can provide you with a plentiful supply of fish such as grouper, snapper, hogfish, turbots (trigger fish), and grunts. How many you can get is dependent on your skill with the spear. Groupers are especially wary and prefer holes hide in which to hide. Crawfish is the principal delicacy that most cruisers search so hard for and which are getting increasingly difficult to find. They prefer to hide during the day under ledges, and rocks, and in holes where the only visible sign of them will be a pair of antennae resembling some sort of sea fan jutting out from their hiding spot. If you are fortunate enough to spear a few, and they are large enough, do not overlook the succulent meat in the base of the antennae and in the legs. So many cruisers ignore these pieces and just take the tail. Watch a Bahamian as they prepare a lobster, very little goes to waste.
When I first began cruising I had this naive idea that all cruisers lived in a certain symbiosis with nature. My bubble finally burst with the bitter realization that many cruisers were infinitely worse than common litterbugs. So often they have the attitude of “out of sight, out of mind.” I sometimes wonder if they believe in supernatural beings, hoping that if they dump their trash somewhere imaginary garbage fairies will come along and take care of the disposal problems for them. One cruiser leaves a few bags of garbage in some secluded (or not so secluded) spot and the next cruiser says “My, what a good spot for a garbage dump. Ethel, bring the garbage, I’ve found the dump!” This is why you often go ashore on otherwise deserted islands and find bags and piles of bags of garbage. Nothing is worse than entering paradise only to discover some lazy, ignorant, slob of a cruiser (no, I have not been too harsh on this type of person, I can still think of plenty of other adjectives without having to consult a thesaurus) has dumped his bags of garbage in the bushes. Please do not add to this problem. Remember, your garbage attracts all kinds of foul creatures such as rats (and other careless cruisers). Nobody likes storing bags of smelly garbage aboard but if you cannot find a settlement nearby to take your garbage for free, you will have to make an allowance in your budget to pay for the local garbage disposal service. If you are nowhere near a garbage facility you should stow your trash aboard separated into three groups for easier disposal. First cans and bottles (wash them first to remove any smells while being stored), then into another container stow the organic stuff such as food scraps, rinds, and eggshells, and finally paper and plastic trash. Your food scraps, you can store them in a large coffee can with a lid, should be thrown overboard daily on an outgoing tide. The paper and plastic should be burned completely when necessary and the ashes buried deep and not on the beach. Cans and bottles should be punctured or broken and dumped overboard in very deep water at least a few miles offshore. Cut off both ends of the cans and break the bottles overboard as you sink them. If you cannot implement a garbage disposal policy aboard your vessel, stay home, don’t come to these beautiful islands. Do not abuse what we all use.
New Year’s Day-January 1 Holidays that fall on Sunday are always observed on Monday. Holidays that fall on Saturday are also usually observed on Monday. Bahamians are very religious people so expect stores and services to be closed on Sundays as well as on Holidays. Some businesses may be open all day on Saturday but may close for a half day on Wednesdays. A must see is the Junkanoo parade that begins about 4:00 a.m. on Boxing Day and New Years Day in Nassau and Freeport.
The culture of The Bahamas, its heart and soul, the eyes through which it sees and is seen, is Junkanoo, with its spirit, music, dancing, singing, costumes and color. Standing along Bay Street in Nassau in the early hours of Boxing Day or New Years Day, one cannot help getting caught up in the frenzy that is Junkanoo. Junkanoo must be experienced on the street, where the clamor of the bells, whistles, and goombay drums approaching in the distance creates an electric feeling in the crowd who sway and jostle with the building excitement. The source of all this energy is the participants, organized groups and “scrap gangs”, throbbing forward to the rhythm of the music. Groups vie in a heated competition for awards for best music, costumes, and dance. Junkanoo was introduced to the American colonies by slaves from Africa’s western coast. From there it quickly spread to Jamaica and The Bahamas. Its exact origins are unknown and the numerous derivations of the name John Canoe further complicate the matter. The West African name Jananin Canno was derived from a combination of the Quojas tribe’s Canno, a supreme being, and Janani, who were the dead who became spirits and were seen as patrons or defenders of the tribe. The Jamaican John Canoe, a slave who insisted on his people having the right to their celebration, was known in eastern North Carolina as John Kuner, John Kooner, John Canoe, Who-Who’s, and Joncooner. A West African trait often attributed to the origin of Junkanoo was an Ashanti figure known as Jankomo. Jankomo was famed for his dance where he took two steps forward and one step back, a form of Junkanoo dancing prevalent in today’s festival. Some researchers theorized that the name is a corruption of the French gens innconnus which, roughly translated, means unknown people or masked people. World War I saw the suspension of Junkanoo when the white inhabitants of Nassau felt the celebrations were unsuitable considering the wartime conditions and Junkanoo was banned from Bay Street until well after the war. It moved to the “over the hill” section of Nassau where it grew and prospered. The prosperous bootlegging period of the 1920’s in The Bahamas was reflected in more flamboyant costumes and headdresses. Junkanoo moved back to Bay Street in 1923 when its potential for increasing tourism revenue became apparent. It was at this time that Junkanoo became a competition with prizes being awarded. Junkanoo was again banned from Bay Street in 1942 when riots broke out due to labor unrest. Junkanoo still thrived on various parts of New Providence and was back on Bay Street by 1947. Junkanoo today is basically the same with some minor changes. It is no longer considered a social taboo to participate in Junkanoo and more and more women are parading in this once male dominated event. Junkanoo is a national event on the edge of becoming an international festival. The heart of Junkanoo is the music which has changed little over the last 50 years. A typical Junkanoo band consists of lead drums, second or bass drums (goombay), cowbells, clappers, bugles, trumpets, horns, conch shells, and whistles. A few obscure instruments, such as the fife, are no longer used. The drum is the core of the music. Drums are made every year from goat or sheep skin and represent a sacrifice, the spilling of blood to make a drum. Drummers often place a flame inside the drum or heat it up over a fire, this is called “bringing it up” and helps produce various drum tones. The combined effect of the music, the bells and drums and horns, all fueled by the emotion of the participants, is overwhelming The costumes create a tremendous visual effect and are painstakingly manufactured by hand. The costumes are brightly colored and usually represent some theme. There are no weight restrictions on costumes and one single piece may weigh over 200 pounds. Competition among the various groups is fierce and members are very secretive about their upcoming productions.
You do not have to own a yacht to see The Bahamas, you can go almost anywhere within the island chain by mailboat. One need only approach the dockmaster on Potter’s Cay for schedules and costs. Shipping times are announced three times daily on ZNS radio in Nassau. The mailboats are subsidized by the Bahamian government for carrying the mail, but they also take on freight and passengers. It is an inexpensive and rewarding way to see the out-islands. If you book passage you will gain a different view of the Bahamian people as travel by mailboat is a cultural experience as well as being a mode of transportation. People on the outer islands would find life hard indeed if not for the mailboats, they are the lifeline of the Bahamian out-islands and the arrival of the mailboat is somewhat of a celebration. Costs range from $30.00 for a trip to Little Farmer’s Cay to slightly higher for George Town or Inagua. Some mailboats include food in the fare. For more information on schedules and fares, visit the office on Potter’s Cay. And while we’re on the subject of Mailboats, let me clarify something. Some cruisers say that if you can’t find the way you wish to go, follow a Mailboat. This is fine for deepwater passages, but you must remember that Mailboat captains know these waters and they accept the fact that they must frequently pay the price for error, which does happen no matter how well somebody knows the waters. To be more succinct, the Mailboats carry spare props, do you?
Most of the out-islands of the Northern and Central Bahamas have small clinics in their major settlements so you may not be very far from some sort of medical help. In the Northern Bahamas, you’ll find that Grand Bahama has several hospitals; Rand Memorial Hospital, (242-352-6735), Sunrise Medical Center (242-373-3333), Port Lucaya Medical Center (242-373-1711), and the Lucayan Medical Center East (242-352-7400), and West (242-352-7288). If you need dental work done, try the Dental Centre at 242-352-4552. At Eight Mile Rock is the ABC Health-World Holistic Clinic (242-352-2222). If you need the services of a vet while visiting Grand Bahama you can call Dr. Bater or Dr. Rich at 242-352-6521, or try Dr. Hanna at 242-352-9511. If you need an ambulance on Grand Bahama call 242-352-2689. In Marsh Harbour, Abaco, the local doctors, Dr. Lundy and Dr. Boyce, have excellent clinics and provide great health care service. The Agape Family Dental Centre, 367-4355, is a few blocks south of the traffic light. If you need to fill a prescription head for the Chemist Shoppe or Lowe’s Pharmacy. If you need pet supplies, for dogs, cats, or even parrots, check out Pets R Us just off Don Mackay Blvd. or visit Pets R People Too near Solomon’s. On Great Abaco, the very professional Trauma One ambulance team has been providing emergency service to Abaco residents since September of 1995. Trauma One could use any donations you would care to offer. Donations may be sent to Trauma One, P.O. Box AB 20594, Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas. All contributions are recorded and appreciated. If you need a dentist while at Treasure Cay, Abaco, call Dr. Spencer at 242-365-8615. In the Central Bahamas, there are two hospitals in Nassau, Princess Margaret Hospital on Shirley Street and Doctor’s Hospital on the corner of Shirley Street and Collins Ave. On Lyford Cay, also on the island of New Providence, is the Lyford Cay Hospital and Bahamas Heart Institute. If more medical assistance is needed the patient will be flown into Nassau, usually to Princess Margaret Hospital. National Air Ambulance out of Ft. Lauderdale, Florida (305-359-9900 or 800-327-3710), can transport patients from The Bahamas to the United States. If you join DAN, the Divers Alert Network, for a small yearly fee, you are covered under their Assist America Plan. This program offers emergency evacuation for any accident or injury, diving related or not, to the nearest facility that can provide you with adequate care. After you have been stabilized to the satisfaction of the attending physician and the Assist America doctor, Assist America will arrange your transportation back to the United States, under medical supervision if necessary. Bear in mind that this is a reimbursement policy, make sure you are clear on this matter before joining. The Bahamas Air-Sea Rescue Association, BASRA, has stations in Nassau, Elbow Cay in Abaco, Black Point, and George Town in the Exumas, Salt Pond in Long Island, and at Landrail Point on Crooked Island. All BASRA stations monitor VHF ch.16, while BASRA Nassau monitors 2182 KHz and 4125 KHz on marine single sideband from 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. Monday through Saturday. BASRA, Nassau, can be reached by phone at 242-322-3877. Bear in mind that the BASRA stations in the out-islands may not monitor the VHF 24-hours a day. If you need an emergency contact while in the Abacos, your friends can email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it and it will be broadcast on the VHF Cruiser’s Net in the Hub Of Abaco.
If you are expecting speedy phone connections you will find that the telephone service in The Bahamas to be quite frustrating. Although there is a Marine Operator in Nassau monitoring VHF ch. 27, there are no marine operators in the out-islands and public phones are few and far between. In 2006, The Bahamas Telecommunication Company, BTC, some still call it Batelco, introduced GSM cell service to Abaco. This has resulted in greater coverage for US based GSM cell phones such as Cingular or Verizon (although the rates are upwards of $1.50 per minute). Cruisers may also establish an account with BTC which gives them a BTC SIM card to install in their US GSM phone, which allows user to access the Bahamian phone system directly instead of paying higher roaming charges. Most cays with settlements will have a BTC office where you may place a phone call. If you call the States, try to get an AT&T USA Direct line (1-800-872-2881); the quality and rates are much better. Most prepaid calling cards are blocked from usage except for Batelco cards and U.S. 800 numbers generally do not work from The Bahamas. Calling cards and direct access numbers that work from The Bahamas are: AT&T-800-872-2881, MCI-800-888-8000, Sprint-800-389-2111, and Working Assets 800-999-9000. If you are calling The Bahamas the area code for all islands is 242.
If you are on a tight budget, it would be best for you to stock up on provisions in the United States prior to your Bahamas cruise. Take enough for the length of your cruise and then some. The cheapest place after the U.S. for provisioning is Puerto Plata (or Santiago, both are easily reached by car or bus from Luperon) in the Dominican Republic. With few exceptions, prices in The Bahamas are considerably higher than American prices. Beer and cigarette prices will seem outrageous with cigarette prices some 2-3 times higher than in the States. The local Bahamian beer, Kalik (named after the sound that cow bells make when clanged together), is very good and more reasonably priced than foreign beers. Try the Kalik Gold Label, it is more full-bodied and a little stronger. Rum, as one would think, can be very inexpensive while American whiskies and certain Scotches are very high. Staples such as rice, beans, flour, and sugar are just slightly higher than U.S. prices. Vegetables can be quite reasonable in season. The vegetable market on Potter’s Cay in Nassau is a good spot to pick up a large box of mixed vegetables for around $15.00 in season. Meats, soft drinks, and milk all are considerably higher than in America. As you shop the various markets throughout The Bahamas you will find some delightful items that are not sold in the U.S., foreign butter and meats for example. The shopping experience will give you the opportunity to purchase and enjoy some new treats. Of course, the prices on fresh fish, conch, and lobster are all open to bargaining with the local fishermen. Good drinking water is available throughout the islands from some of the cisterns and wells on various cays. Well water will have a higher salt content than cistern water, which is rainwater. Always check with the owners before you remove any water. Most stores sell bottled water and you can buy reverse osmosiswater in quite a few places. Food prices on Long Island, particularly at Salt Pond and southward to Mangrove Bush, can be equivalent to and sometimes better than prices in George Town, Exuma. Prices in Provo, Turks and Caicos, are equivalent to Nassau prices and sometimes better with some prices near stateside levels. If you plan to dine out while in the islands, you will find the prices to be higher than stateside prices. It is common for dining establishments in The Bahamas to include a 15% gratuity in the check.
The islands of The Bahamas are affected by the west setting North Equatorial Current on both their eastern and western extremities. After entering the Caribbean the North Equatorial Current splits into two branches, the northern branch flowing northeast of The Bahamas off Abaco, Eleuthera, Cat Island, and Long Island as the Antilles Current with an average velocity of approximately ½ knot. To a lesser extent the Antilles Current also flows through the Old Bahama Channel along the northern coast of Cuba and through the islands of The Bahamas themselves. The more southern branch of the North Equatorial Current makes its way around the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico and enters the Straits of Florida as the Gulf Stream with an average velocity of approximately 2.5 knots in a northward direction. Once north of The Bahamas the stronger Gulf Stream merges with the weaker Antilles Current and bears off north and northeastward across the North Atlantic. The Sailing Directions for the Caribbean Sea (DMA# SDPUB147) advises that the eastern entrance to the Northwest Providence Channel has a northwest setting current of approximately 2-3 knots which may reverse to a southeast set after strong northwest to north winds. Within the Northeast and Northwest Providence Channels themselves the current is nominal although after strong northerly winds the set may be easterly with a velocity of approximately 1 knot. Where the shallow banks drop off to deeper ocean waters in such areas as the Abacos, the Berry Islands, the Biminis, the Exumas, and the Jumentos, tidal currents flow in and out the passes and cuts sometimes reaching 2-4 knots in strength and even more in a few of the more narrow passes. Some cuts may be impassable in adverse wind conditions or in heavy swells that may exist with or without any wind. Even in moderate conditions, onshore winds against an outgoing tide can create very rough conditions. As a rule of thumb you can estimate the tidal rise and fall to be about 2½ ’-3’ at most times. Where the banks drop off to the deeper waters of the Atlantic Ocean, the Straits of Florida, the Tongue of the Ocean, or Exuma Sound for instance, the tides ebb and flow in and out the passes and cuts with ferocity in places, sometimes reaching 2-4 knots in strength and even more in a few of the more narrow passes. All tides in The Bahamas are based on the tides in Nassau, which have a mean rise of 2.6’. Tides immediately after the first and last quarter of the moon, rise approximately ½’ less, while tides after new and full moons rise approximately ½’ more. During Spring tides, when the moon is nearest the Earth, the range is increased by another ½’. Cruising through The Bahamas during Spring full moon tides will give you some of the lowest lows and highest highs. It is quite easy to run aground at this time on some of the banks routes. Boats with drafts of 5’ have reportedly run aground in what is normally a 6’ depth at low water during this time. To receive tidal information while in The Bahamas see the section entitled Weather later in this chapter. When attempting to predict the state of tide at any time other than at slack tide, you can use the Rule of Twelfths for a generally reliable accuracy. To do this take the amount of tidal fluctuation and divide it into twelfths. For example, if high tide in Nassau is expected to be 3.0’ and the low water datum is 0.0’, the tidal fluctuation is 3’, and each twelfth is 0.25’ or 3”. To predict the state of tide at different times you can use the Rule of Twelfths in the following table. The table is merely to demonstrate a point and uses an imaginary charted high tide of 3’. Always consult your chart tables or listen for tide information broadcasts and calculate accordingly. Time of Low Water Tide Datum - 0 Feet *Caution: assumes a 3’ tidal fluctuation. Chart tables give the times and heights of high and low water but not the time of the turning of the tide or slack water. Usually there is little difference between the times of high and low water and the beginning of ebb or flood currents, but in narrow channels, landlocked harbors, or on tidal creeks and rivers, the time of slack water may vary by several hours. In some places you will find that it is not unusual for the currents to continue their direction of flow long after charted predictions say they should change. Strong winds can play havoc on the navigator attempting to predict slack water. The current may often appear in places as a swift flowing river and care must be taken whenever crossing a stretch of strong current to avoid being swept out to sea or onto a bank or rocks. Some of the currents may flow from 2.5 to over 4 knots in places and in anchorages with tidal flow two anchors are a must. Some cuts may be impassable in adverse wind conditions or in heavy swells that may exist with or without any wind. Even in moderate conditions, onshore winds against an outgoing tide can create very rough conditions.
The regulations pertaining to the proper use of VHF in The Bahamas are basically identical to those in the United States. The Public Utilities Commission now handles all licensing for VHF, SSB, and amateur radios. In The Bahamas, channel 16 is the designated channel for hailing and distress. Please shift all traffic to a working channel when you have made contact with your party. The Public Utilities Commission requests that all vessels in Bahamian waters use ch. 68 as a hailing frequency and then switch to a working channel after contact is made. This works fine in most places, except in Nassau where so many fishermen use ch. 68 that people often revert back to ch. 16 because they don’t care to listen to the fishermen all day. People throughout The Bahamas use the VHF as a telephone. Almost every household has a VHF radio while few can afford the luxury of a cellular phone. You will often hear businesses announcing their latest deals, or the local restaurant describing the delights of their upcoming seafood night and inviting you for a meal in exchange for a small amount of cash. Technically this is illegal and improper by American as well as Bahamian laws. Bear in mind that this is a way of life in the Bahamian Out Islands and that you are a visitor here and only temporary. There are a few cruisers who bring with them into this paradise the very things that many of us are here to escape. Some of these people insist on playing radio vigilante, sitting by the VHF anxiously awaiting an opportunity to spring into action and place the restrictions of the dreaded “proper radio etiquette” that have been placed on them, upon someone else. If you are one of the Radio Police, please relax. You are doing nothing but making an unpleasant situation intolerable and increasing your blood pressure in the process. This is just the way it is on ch.16 and 68 in The Bahamas and you had best learn to live with it. There is absolutely nothing that you, the Bahamian government, or the Public Utilities Commission can do to change things. Besides, you will find few other cruisers that will agree with you. If you don’t wish to hear the ads or traffic, simply turn your radio off. In Marsh Harbour, Abaco, you can hail a taxi on VHF ch. 06 simply by calling for “any taxi,” or any particular taxi if you know their number, such as “Taxi 13.” Please, never use VHF ch. 06 as a working channel, it is unofficially reserved for taxi usage. Please be sure to reserve the following channels in the Abacos: ch. 70 is for digital selective calling, ch. 65 is for Dolphin Research (more on this in a moment), ch. 71 is used for the fishing tournaments which usually occur from Feb.-July, ch. 72 is used as the working channel for Hope Town Fire Rescue, ch. 78 is used during the Abaco Regatta (usually late June/early July), and ch. 80 is used by Marsh Harbour Emergency Services. BASRA and the medical clinic on Treasure Cay stand by on VHF chs. 20 and 83 with a powerful rig that covers most of the surrounding waters. Many of the residents of Treasure Cay also monitor VHF ch. 66 while some of the folks on Guana Cay stand by on VHF ch. 08. Cruiser’s within VHF range of Marsh Harbour can participate in the morning Cruiser’s Net on VHF ch. 68 at 0815. This is a well-organized and very helpful net that will likely become a part of your morning ritual while cruising in the Hub of Abaco. Here you will get weather forecasts as well as reports on conditions at Whale Cay Passage, North Man-O-War Cut, Tilloo Cut, and North Bar Channel. You can also listen to messages from arriving and departing cruisers as well as commercial announcements covering everything from Cruiser’s emails to the latest happy hour offerings. If you need an emergency contact while in the Abacos, your friends can email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it and it will be broadcast on the VHF Cruiser’s Net. Just before the Cruiser’s Net the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club meets on VHF ch. 78 from 0800-0814. The RMHYC has over 800 members and meets monthly, the 2nd Tuesday of every month, at Boat Harbour Marina. The fee is $120 for new members to join as well as $30 annual dues. You can visit their website at www.rmhcy.com or contact the Commodore at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . There is an active dolphin research program in the Abacos, The Bahamas Marine Mammal Survey, and they urge any boater spotting marine mammals, and that includes manatees, to please call “Dolphin Research” on VHF ch. 65. You will need to give them a position report of the sighting, the number of animals sighted, and especially any identifying marks such as nicks on their fins or scars on their bodies. Please reserve VHF ch. 65 for this purpose. In the Northern Abacos, Fox Town Texaco and the Tangelo Hotel have volunteered to broadcast the weather and announce waiting emails each morning on the VHF. There will be an announcement on VHF ch. 68 between 0700 and 0800 with a message to switch to a working channel. The exact time depends on the workload at Fox Town Texaco. |





